Raise a Mixed Drink For Dear Old State U.
"STRETCHING for miles in every direction, the tailgate party at Louisiana State University in Baton Rouge on the Friday night before the Thanksgiving weekend football game looked like a backyard cookout imagined by Cecil B. DeMille.
Fans of the L.S.U. Tigers brought out turkey-frying rigs and oversize cast-iron jambalaya pots for a seasonal display of propane-powered overkill. Wisps of blue smoke curled from countless grills and filtered through low-hanging oak branches. Anything that could be put on a grill, from soy dogs to whole hogs, was roasting over gas flames, glowing charcoal or long-tended wood fires. Folding tables sagged with platters of deviled eggs, bowls of cole slaw and crocks of molten Velveeta dip.
With all that creativity and attention lavished on the pregame menu, you might expect football fans to follow suit with their beverages. Yet the drinking culture at the Baton Rouge tailgate, and at similar get-togethers around the country, is typically not much fancier than a card-table bar with a lineup of bottles and mixers, and the ever-present beer cooler.
But as more affluent alumni embrace high-dollar tailgating, they often bring a new level of sophistication to pregame drinking. For Elise Decoteau, a clothing retailer, hitting the tailgate scene does not mean sacrificing a quality cocktail. As a mother of two and longtime Louisiana State fan, Ms. Decoteau, 39, goes through the football season with a secret weapon on ice.
''I've always got a couple of gallons of bourbon milk punch in my freezer,'' she said. Smooth and rich without being overpowering, the milk punch is a staple at Louisiana holiday parties and New Orleans jazz brunches. Mixed the night before and chilled or frozen, this classic morning eye-opener -- sweetened milk fortified with bourbon and dusted with nutmeg -- is a versatile large-batch cocktail that sets Ms. Decoteau apart from the crowd. ''When we head out to the stadium I put one in the ice chest and by game time it's thawed to a perfect slush.'' It is just one sign that tailgate cocktails have moved toward the top shelf.
''The serious revelers don't just bring beer anymore,'' said David Joachim, author of ''The Tailgater's Cookbook.'' ''They bring the whole bar. Cold beer is year round, but the cocktails change with the season. They make bowls of sangria or pitchers of mojitos. They heat up spiced cider, put out a few bottles of liquor and let everybody spike their own.''
For the younger set, rooting for the team can mean overindulging. But the older crowd is often looking to adapt the comforts of home to the parking lot.
''College football culture is still largely college culture, and the goals are different for different generations,'' Mr. Joachim said. ''The older crowd wants to enjoy themselves all day instead of getting looped.''
At the University of Mississippi in Oxford, the tailgaters take their personal concoctions to the tree-ringed Grove in the center of campus. As his contribution, Robert Jones of Madison, Miss., set up elaborate five-gallon water coolers with premixed bloody marys and refreshing (if defizzed) mimosas.
''I can't cook, but I always made a good cocktail, and it seemed like the obvious role for me to fill,'' Mr. Jones said. ''It's a doctored mix with citrus, spices and sauces. All secret. After six years the flavor is just where I like it.''
Fans in northern climates know the tailgate cocktail choice can be a part of a larger survival strategy: chasing away brutal chills on subzero afternoons.
''Most Badger fans don't want their drinks more complicated than a cold beer,'' said Andy Winterstein, a University of Wisconsin fan from Madison. ''But when the weather gets bad people are looking to stay warm. Hot chocolate with peppermint schnapps in a thermos bottle is a favorite. But I've heard people pour rum or Kahlúa in, too.''
Regardless of the climate, a signature drink can bring a touch of class to the parking lot, and can give rein to the competitive spirit before kickoff.
''Tailgating culture is all about one-upmanship,'' Mr. Joachim said. ''It's about outdoing your friends, outdoing the tent next to you, and, most importantly, outdoing the opponent's tailgaters.''
Big Batch Bourbon Milk Punch  Time: 5 minutes, plus overnight freezing
12 ounces confectioners' sugar, or to taste
1/2 gallon whole milk  12 ounces bourbon whiskey  1 tablespoon vanilla extract  Ground nutmeg for garnish.
In a bowl, whisk sugar into milk until dissolved. Add bourbon and vanilla and stir to combine. Freeze overnight and thaw the morning of tailgate party. Pour over ice with a dusting of nutmeg.
Yield: 8 cocktails.
Bloody Mariachi  (Tequila Bloody Mary)  Adapted from ''The Tailgater's Cookbook,'' by David Joachim (Broadway Books)  Time: 5 minutes
24 ounces tomato juice  9 ounces tequila  2 tablespoons fresh lime juice  1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce  1 to 2 teaspoons adobo sauce (from canned chipotle chilies)
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon celery salt  Celery sticks, lemon wedges and pickled okra for garnish.
In a chilled pitcher or a large, chilled thermos, mix all ingredients except for garnishes. Shake or stir. Garnish with celery, lemon and/or okra. Serve over ice.
Yield: 6 cocktails."